On a cold and windy night in Paris...

...there's nothing better to do than head to a tiny little adorable restaurant tucked away in the 10th.

Last weekend we had one of the coldest weekends in Paris. It got down to -10 Celsius. I only even realized how cold it was when I was at the market in the morning, and I took my hands out of my mittens to pay for some brocolli...and by the time I put them back in my mittens, my fingers were frozen. Amazingly, the outdoor markets were still busy (admittedly with crazy people like me who stubbornly refused to believe that it could get that cold here). It even snowed! Here's the photo to prove it - snow coming down outside my apartment:


Ok, so all of that to say that after a quick walk from the metro to get to this restaurant, we were ready for some warmth and deliciousness. Le Galopin is a super small, funky restaurant. It does a phenomenal prix fixe with a menu that changes daily, all prepared for you by the two chefs in the tiny kitchen that has a big open window out onto the about 10 tables in the restaurant. So you can litterally see the chefs preparing your food as you sit and chat and enjoy the cozy atmoshpere and excellent wine.

The lamb

I love not having to chose what I'm going to eat; and the two amuses-bouches (a little potato-shrimp soup that tasted like a champagne-based clam chowder, and a little zuchini/squash salad), entrée (cod sashimi), two mains (a super-tender fish, and a lamb and brussel sprouts combination), and two deserts (yes! two! a banana  ice cream and chocolate cookie-crumble, and a marinated pear, walnut and sorbet combo) really hit the spot.

Dessert #1! Pears and walnuts.
I had to have a bite before I took the photo...

Beautifully presented, perfectly cooked, we spent a good amount of time trying to guess at all of the different flavour combinations in each dish. Accompanied with a delicious bottle of bordeaux - all I can say is that I will absolutely be back!

The Whalesbone Oyster House

There are some restaurants that have a special combination of creative, consistently delicious food, fantastic atmosphere and great finishing touches. When you find them, it's hard not to want to go anywhere else! I had the pleasure of visiting The Whalesbone in Ottawa...for a third time...and it wowed me just as much as the first time.
Accompanied by a worldly, handsome and suave gentleman who also happened to be in ottawa on business at the same time -  we sat at the chef's table and had a great time watching the cooks in action, listening to the great music and having scintillating conversations...(hehe - thanks dad :) 

photos: www.thewhalesbone.com

Now to the food:

• Relish: It might be blasphemous to go to an Oyster bar and not have oysters...so we did. Shared 12 to start, 4 from BC, 4 from New Brunswick and 4 from Ireland. These come with 7 sauces, 3 of which are homemade (a seafood sauce, vinaigrette and spicy sauce, a few types of tobasco, and then whisky...which I stayed away from). We then shared a starter of seared swordfish: three beautifully put together mounds of swordfish, home-grown cucumbers, heirloom tomatoes and fresh cheese...delicious. I then had the scallops, soft and juicy, accompanied with radish, some fritters, blue benedictin cheese and tiny tomatoes - a sublime and beautifully balanced combination of tastes, all displayed with precision on a wooden board. Dad had the haddock - I stole a taste, and it was cooked to just-flaky - yet moist and savoury. Oh, I almost forgot - we also started with a few slices of fresh bread, filled with poppyseeds, nuts and seeds, and paired with a lovely melted-butter that tasted like a gourmet buttered popcorn. Wow. Sitting perched at the chef's table we saw a lot of food pass by en route to tables, and so I have to mention the lobster...a trio of lobster mac and cheese, a lobster tail, and a lobster bun...oh my goodness - that might be what I have to try next time.
• Quaff: a great wine list for pairing with seafood, about 10 whites and 8-10 reds. We were given a quick taste of our white before ordering, a server recommendation that paired perfectly with the oysters - a Sokol Blosser 'Evolution: Luck' from Oregon. 
• Feel: Hip-checking and laughing chefs in the tiny open kitchen, an oyster shucker working hard at the bar, great tunes, humming conversations, packed tables - this place has tons of character, with a fun, food and drink loving vibe, super friendly, smiling staff, and happy customers. The bathrooms deserve a special mention here - framed love letters in the ladies are a beautiful touch (and I've heard the men's has some creative decorations as well). 

My Dad summed up the take-away on Whalesbone quite nicely: "the food is amazing - but the best thing is the personality!".

w: The Whalesbone Oyster House

Lucien - take two

A few nights ago I had an impromptu fancy dins with my amazing friend Sarah. It was one of those nights that just changed the emotional trajectory of the day, from being sort of 'blah' (coming home after a work trip, thinking I would have to rustle something up from my bare fridge, and re-packing my bags for yet another trip) to being an 'I love Toronto' type of night. Sarah and Lucien - thank you! After a spur of the moment, late-afternoon text of 'let's meet up for a drink and catch up', we ended up agreeing that we should really get some use out of a soon-to-expire Groupon and head to Lucien. We grabbed a seat at the bar, stowed my carry on in the coat check and enjoyed a lovely meal and great conversation.

• Relish: It was a delicious meal. Sarah had the pea soup with crab and the pickerel, and I had the arugula salad, graced with slivered cucumber, a cucumber and dill mousse, pine nuts and pecorino. Light, a beautiful combination, and the cucumber mousse was a neat texture and provided a subtle dressing to the arugula leaves. I followed that with the waiters recommendation of the Alberta bison - and it was yummy. Beautifully displayed, the bison was cooked perfectly, piping hot and accompanied with a sort of multi-vegetable slaw, and some delicious mashed root vegetables. 
• Quaff: The house red was a montepulciano d'abruzzo, which went quite well with the bison. The rest of the wine selection was a bit uninspired, but it looked as though it had been updated from the last time I had been.
• Feel: Busy, bustling, I liked the feel, but not enough that I would hurry back - it almost feels like it's trying a bit too hard to be both chic yet edgy. We did get a few laughs at the expense of the odd business-types also seated at the bar - one gentleman having a 4 course tasting menu with wine pairings accompanied by his laptop, and the other who came in, wolfed down a yummy looking salmon, ate a basket of bread, and then promptly took off. 

It was great to try the place outside of summerlicious, but I wouldn't hurry back now that I've been. Either way Lucien (and sarah) - thanks for the fun night!

town.

Tuesday night at 8:15pm in Ottawa, and the last thing I expected was to be walking into a packed restaurant. Town was just about full, but somehow miraculously we managed to nab two seats left at the chef's bar (we had a nice view into the kitchen and of the busy chefs as the dishes were being prepared).

• Relish: The options included about 10 smaller dishes, 4 larger dishes (two of which were available in a small size) and a cheese plate. We shared the Mint Cavatelli (a rolled pasta with super tender lamb, mint, pistachios and ricotta - it smelled incredible and was great comfort food, although missing a tad bit of 'oomph'), the Ling cod (absolutely fantastic, a crispy crust with a bit of tangy sweetness, mini asparagus, sweet peas and a couscous - the winner of the dishes by a long shot), and the Tuna Crudo (not the greatest, the chives and prosciutto and oil overpowered the delicate taste of the tuna and somehow gave it an odd aftertaste). We also shared a cheese-plate, 4 quebec cheese and an italian taleggio, accompanied by honey, stewed apricots and crisps. Overall good, but not in the same league as whalesbone or Murray Street. I would order differently if I were to go back - the meatballs and prosciutto salad would be on my list.
• Quaff: I had a scrumptious Mission Hill (BC Okanagan) pinot noir - 'five vineyards'. Stewed cherries and chinese five spice on the nose, with grippier than expected tannins and a nice balance, it was delicious, although served a tad bit too chilled for my taste (but that is always rectified with some requisite nursing). My dining partner tried two different draught ales - Beau's, that he described as 'india pale ale, not as bitter, light after taste' and a 'good flavour', and  the McAuslan, a st. Ambroise apricot wheat ale.
• Feel: Dark walls, a natural wood bar and tables, a chalkboard wall displaying the menu and a wall of wines behind the bar gave this cosy-chic feel, very 'ottawa-esque'...based on the similarities with Whalesbone and Murray Street. It made me feel like I found my neighbourhood haunt, and was a perfect spot for a great conversation

Photos: town. facebook page

w: Town website

Lucien

A few months ago en route magazine names Lucien as one of the top 10 best restaurants in canada...so I naturally added it to my list. It took me a while to get there, and after a few tries (always ended up thinking it was likely too stuffy and fancy for the evening) made it out last week. It was a sweltering evening, so sitting inside was lovely (there is no patio).

• Relish: We lucked out and caught the restaurant full swing into summerlicious, so for $45 per person, you could choose from 3 options for each of 3 courses. Unfortunately, no other options were available, so I couldn't use my Groupon, but the choices were pretty good. Arguably the starters won the show - we had a chilled pea soup with snow crab, pickled radish and wasabi that was perfectly chilled with a gorgeous sweet pea flavour, and a heirloom tomato salad with house-made burrata, watermelon, basil and mint where each bite was full of fresh, sweet tomatoes. The main was atlantic cod with fingerling potato, house-made chorizo, pimento and arugula - although the taste was great, the fish was a bit overdone. The desert was incredibly creative, super sweet Ontario strawberries with tonka bean panna cotta, basil and black pepper, and a chocolate beetroot brownie with marshmallow, cherry, malted milk and black walnut. Have the strawberries, and pass on the beetroot brownie. 
• Quaff: An interesting wine list, with the standard grapes by the glass, but not from producers that I've seen a lot of. We opted for a bottle of chilled white at the recommendation of our waiter. I wish I could remember the name, but I can't...I need to write these down more judiciously! Either way, it was an excellent recommendation. 
• Feel: It is always hard to get the true feel for a restaurant during summerlicious - but Lucien did strike a nice balance between being classy yet unpretentious, in a way where you knew you would be well-taken-care-of. I love the jazz music, chandeliers and open window to the kitchen, and this would be a great place to pull up a stool at the bar. I am a little bit confused by the fact that despite its high ranking among restaurant aficionados, it never really seems to be busy when I walk by - but I will be back to try it sans-summerlicious and with my Groupon! 

I would recommend it for a quiet date night or a business dinner. Enjoy!
w: http://www.lucienrestaurant.com/


photos: http://greatlighting.com/index.cfm?DocID=14561

Sidedoor

Asian-fusion-tapas is the main focus at Sidedoor. A recommendation from a colleague, it's tucked in the alley (or courtyard) off of York street in Byward market, just in beside the restaurant Eighteen. This makes for a very cute little spot surrounded by old stone buildings. The patio has a mix of wooden tables, trees and lounge tables with couches.

• Relish: The menu here is all about sharing plates, tapas-style. The highlights: the crispy fish tacos with trout, coriander, avocado and jalapenos, the steamed shrimp dumplings packed full of shrimp, and the 'melt in your mouth' braised beef with curry and roasted peanuts over rice. Other honourable mentions: the papaya salad, stacked with mango, papaya, mint, thai basil, and the broiled black cod with butter lettuce wraps and home-pickled pickles. Not worth a mention was the tuna sashimi - too much seasoning drowned the tuna.
• Quaff: A great wine by the glass list, with 3 oz and 5oz options. Some very unusual grape types available by the glass - a white auxerrois, cortese, ribolla gialla, chardonnay musque, and a red agiorgitiko from greece. I kind of want to go back and try all of these interesting grape-types! Decent beer choices, although the focus is definitely on wines and cocktails. The agiorgitiko was more complex than I expected, a bit of a 'cherry bomb' off the nose, but serious undertones of leather and cedar helped mellow the mouthfeel. Low tannis and average alcohol - I would definitely pick up a bottle and pair with spicy foods - it was great with the braised beef. (Agiorgitiko, 2009, Gaia, Nemea, Greece).
• Feel: Relaxed and enjoyable. The patio was cute, surrounded by old stone walls, but maintaining a modern feel due to the different table styles and leafy trees, while the inside of the restaurant felt a bit imposing, but multiple levels and exposed stone made it classy yet relaxed. Lots of groups of 6+ sitting at larger boot-like tables, while on the patio most of the tables were dates or smaller groups of friends. Made me feel comfy - and I would happily have stuck around for a second glass of wine and relaxed after dinner. 

I'll absolutely be back - both the wine and the food were delicious!

w: sidedoorrestaurant.com

Chez L'Epicier

I'm most unfortunately going to be writing most of this from memory. It has been a while since I've been to Chez L'Epicier - but worthy of  a post at this point for a few reasons:

1. it was one of my first experiences with locally sourced and incredibly creative Canadian cuisine 
2. it has set my 'creme brule' bar (to this day un-met)
3. it's in an old stone building and has exposed stone and a few turquoise walls
4. a friend is heading to montreal next weekend and needed a spot for a special night - and this is it

I first discovered Chez L'Epicier when I was at school in Montreal - with a friend who's father came into the city and took us out on occasion to places we couldn't afford on our 'student' budgets. It blew me away, so any chance I could, I went back (although there weren't many chances, but I did take my parents, a family friend, and my grandparents whenever they came downtown).

• Relish: Creative, inventive, mixtures of awesome tastes and textures. One of the entrees is called "thermal experience of salmon and apple"...I can't wait to try it! My favourites, although it is a little silly that I can remember this, were the Creme Brule medley (three perfect little pots of creme brule, each flavoured slightly differently), the cheese plate (amazing quebec cheeses) and the poached salmon main. But honestly, I don't think you can go wrong. They also sell a bunch of seasonings, oils and jams at the counter for your home-cooking enjoyment.
• Quaff: From what I remember, they have a great wine list. I had a delicious, crisp white wine here a few times, but can't remember what it is! I might just have to go back.
• Feel: Perfectly Montreal. Old stones. High ceilings. Turquoise walls. Menu's printed on paper bags. White table cloths. Elegant stemware. House-made bread served in tins. A combination that creates an elegant, relaxed atmosphere.

I've recommended this spot to friends looking for a great, classy, interesting dinner out and colleagues looking for a good work-event or quiet but elegant work-related dinner, and have heard only rave-reviews in return. Enjoy!

please note: a few other Montreal recommendations are listed under the 'out of town' link at this time as well!

w: Chez L'Epicier

Starfish Oyster Bed & Grill

Whenever my Dad (who also loves food) comes to visit Toronto, we tend to have a conversation that sounds a lot like this:

Me: "So, where should we go for dinner tonight?" 

Dad: "I don't know, you seem to have some good recommendations, I'm up for anything - why don't you pick?" 

Me: "Ok, so how about we try (insert name of new restaurant), I've heard it's awesome and I think you'll love it." 

Dad: "Well, are you sure? [pause. pause. pause]...I might actually be in the mood for some oysters" 

Me: [usually with a grin on my face by this point] "ok, how about...Starfish then? 

Dad: "Oh, well if you insist...but we did go there last time I was in town...but if you're ok with that...I would LOVE to!"

Luckily, I share my Dad's love for Starfish. I think it's the combination of the fresh oysters (shucked in front of you if you're lucky enough to nab a spot at the bar), the incredible creative seafood mains, the mussels and delicious belgian-style frites, the crisp white wines - all served with a certain panache that make this a phenomenal spot. 

• Relish:Oysters. Fresh, delicious oysters. They come with three homemade sauces, fresh horseradish...could you ask for anything better? Mussels & frites are stellar, as are all of the mains of super fresh seafood with creative accompaniments. 
• Quaff: Wine. White if possible. An overall solid wine list, and a few good glass options as well (although you'll probably need a bottle as the meals here are never quick)! 
• Feel: On a busy night it's packed with a varied crowd truly enjoying wine, great food and good company. Some booths, a few high tables and a great bar all add variety. I wouldn't say that the feel is spot on (the tables may be a bit too big and square for a more cozy feel) but it has a bit of an aloof "you're here for the oysters right?" feel. The bar is definitely the best spot.

It is slightly out of the way, but I think that actually might add to the charm. It's definitely a gem that you would walk by a thousand times and never think twice about...so please make sure you stop next time!
Enjoy!


w: Starfish Oyster Bed & Grill